Beauty is in the Eyes of the Beholder

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there"

Call it what you will: according to tradition it is Kallisti (“most beautiful”), in antiquity its name was Thira, and ancient times knew it as Strongili (“rounded”).

I will settle for calling it Paradise.

Modern Greeks (as well as the rest of the world) revere the famed Island of Santorini for its tumultuous geological history, for the views along the cliffs around the edge of the coastline, for the unique early civilizations that thrived once upon a time, and for the hearty cuisine that makes the mouth and heart melt.

Several of us took the trip out to this enchanting island, a trip which started with an eight hour long boat ride there. For most of Friday morning we relaxed on the deck, grappled with mild sea sickness, and tried to accomplish a little work before arriving at our destination. Late afternoon saw us debarking to the small port of Athinios where we haggled with local bus drivers, but finally figured out which one would take us to our hotel. Up the cliff and around the bend was the tourist-populated town of Fira. Our hotel, King Thiras Hotel, required a hike up a small hill, overlooking the Old Center of the Island; it was quite quaint with the conventional white-washed walls and blue wooden frames that adorn the country-side of most Islands in Greece. The couple who owns and runs the hotel were ever so helpful, driving us to and from the bus stop, booking our tour trips, giving us information about archaeological site and museum hours of operation, and serving us Greek yogurt for breakfast every morning. I was lucky to listen to the owner’s stories about his time in the navy 50 years ago when he travelled around the world “at least three times”, and he also bought brown bread for breakfast just for me thereafter.

Oia is the most famous village in Santorini; its picturesque alleys, stylish restaurants, and multi-lingual shop owners have visitors eating out of the palms of their hands. The element that trumps them all though, is the sunset. People flock from all over the world to visit this impressive cliff-side view of one of nature’s best shows. Standing atop a castle-like fortification, while snagging the perfect picture and feeling at one with the sun, sea, earth, and wind all around you, was priceless. The night was made complete with a perfect dinner at a high-end restaurant that jutted out on a cliff above the water. While wandering around the town a little while longer, we stopped to talk to some locals and practiced our Greek, which is slowly but surely getting better (or so we like to think), and spontaneously indulged in mint and chocolate gelato.

Postcard ready, with hardly any effort

It was an early night for us, to pace ourselves for the next couple of nights ahead. After a late breakfast the next morning we decided to explore the little town around our hotel. There were countless shops, museums, restaurants, and best of all, free samples of caramel and sesame-covered peanuts. After gazing our fill at little antique stores, we found our way down the two kilometer of steps that meandered down the cliff to the water. Accompanying us were hundreds of donkeys for tourists to ride on; species indigenous to the island. We were brave, but not that brave. We settled for simply patting them along the way. Once at the port, we loaded ourselves onto an early 20^th century pirate ship look-a-like. With the sail and mast guiding our way, we arrived a short while later at the active volcanoes we were so eager to explore.

We learned about three craters, and walked around the edge of the only one still active. The colour of the ash determines the age of the lava and the volcano; therefore the darker the ash, the fresher the lava deposits. The largest crater that was still active had small ‘ovens’ around it, in which placing your hands will almost roast them to bits. The temperature is significantly higher (which, considering the already hot day, was remarkable, and a little uncomfortable) and you can definitely smell the sulphur and smoke being emitted from the mouth of the crater. The stories about the eruption of the volcano that we learned in class coincided with the tour guide’s information: over many centuries the continuous eruptions and activities of the volcano significantly changed the shape and layout of the island. It went from being a circular block of land almost forever ago to now being a huge caldera, giving one an absolutely spectacular view of the other end of the island from either end. The violent explosions were massive, with ash coverings measuring up to 150 feet high.

After the walking tour we were taken in the same boat to the other side of the small area of land into the hot springs. The temperature was absolutely perfect, not too warm, but just warm enough. We dived right in, directly from the boad. Slides and ladders from the boat were unleashed, as we swam around and had a drink by the floating bar. Flawless way to end a visit to an active volcano? Me thinks yes. That, and the lovely breeze flying through our hair on the way back.

We are energetic, youthful souls. I always take the stairs without hesitation. I will hike up almost anything (if there is sufficient shade), and I will rough it up from time to time.

But yes, we took the cable cars back up the hill. It was worth it – for the time saved, for the hot flushes that were spared, and for the view as we zoomed back up to heaven. My falafel radar kicked in almost immediately and I found an adorable little Mediterranean take-out place with the most delicious falafel I’ve had in a while. Also with handsome and funny servers, who expertly yielded to my request for “pola lahanika, parakalo’ (lots of vegetables, please) and assumed I would like the extra hot spicy sauce they have because I am “from the India, where you eat too many spicy things”. Assumption much appreciated, so much so that I returned to lunch there the next afternoon too.

Beautiful craftsmanship - blue as blue can be

That same afternoon, we weren't quite through yet. We caught a bus to Akrotiri, which is an ancient archaeological site. It is said to have extensive Minoan (from Crete) influence architecturally, artistically, and culturally. It did not disappoint; the site was completely indoors and had modern walkways through the rooms and ruins of the city. There were building three stories high – built back around 1400BC. Too many pots to count, and so many protrusions from the walls that I stopped taking pictures very quickly – it was mesmerizing and probably one of my two favourite sites I've visited so far. I have become quite fond of walking through these things while fancying myself part of whatever nobility existed back then. I would have enjoyed being a princess and living in the large ‘palaces’ (correction, the people who know better know to call them ‘Large Administrative Centers’, says my wonderfully witty archaeological professor).

That was my room. In my previous life. As a princess in Akrotiri

We then walked all of ten minutes to get to the Red Beach, watch people cliff jump (I am still stunned that this happens in real life), and walked back to the main center of Akrotiri to find an old Venetian tower. This old Venetian tower held the secret to a wonderful night. We visited an alumnus of CYA who studied here 20 years ago. She gave up her life in the States and moved to Athens, worked for a bit, met her husband, and they gave it all up again and moved to Santorini. They both love history and music – so what better way to combine their passion than to resurrect to glory this ancient tower once occupied by the Byzantines, the Romans, the Greeks, and now them? Oh, and just to make things interesting, they dedicated their efforts in bringing back the importance of the Greek bagpipe. Called the Sambuca, it has parts from a goat, a sheep, and a cow. It sounded marvelous and very enchanting.

Sitting there and marveling at her husband’s musical ability on the instrument wasn't sufficient though. He gave us each a percussion instrument and soon we were making some pretty decent music. We learned so much about music, history, and life. They had such a zest for life, and were inspiring in the way they described (albeit a cliché) how happiness should dictate your decisions in life. The night continued after the performance at her favourite taverna in town. Round after round of appetizers, we did our newly honed Greek appetites proud. We graciously accepted grapes to take home (mostly because I powered through them so fast I think the owner thought I was fruit-deprived all my life) and hailed the bus down as it drove by, from our seats at the table. The long bus ride home offered new views of the island, and I persevered with enthusiasm until I crashed upon my bed at King Thiras Hotel as soon as I stepped foot inside.

Our last day was simultaneously and upbeat yet low-key one. We visited the archaeological and history museums and spent a long time supplementing our visit to the ancient site the day before. It was enjoyable to examine the jewelry, potters, and tools the excavations produced. The last exhibit was a decent sized, completely golden bull with its consecrated horns. Anthropologists are still unsure about the ritual activities and events leading up to the volcanoes of the people of ancient Akrotiri, but nevertheless they produced many diverse artifacts. The last stop was the Santozeum, a private collection of frescoes painstakingly pieced back together by many international teams, and lots of complicated technology. Frescoes are a technique of mural painting on fresh limestone. It is very complicated, and disastrous to get wrong. The Minoans fashioned plenty however, with scenes of nature, general people in daily life, war scenes, conquests and exploits, ritual and cult activity, and some purely decorative masterpieces. The museum was located right at the edge of the cliff, providing a serene experience. After gaining as much insight as I thought possible, we made our way back.

Found among the ask remains, perfectly intact, possibly ritualistic?

Armed with our bags and falafel for a quick lunch, we waited for our ship back that almost never came. Not that it would have been a bad thing to be stranded there; that should count as a legitimate excuse for an absence, right? Once finally aboard, we settled in to study what little we could, play many rounds of intensely heated Mafia and fast-paced Skip-Bo. I find it incredible that I’m still learning more about America even here, 5000 miles away from campus. I’m learning even more about Greece though, every single day; I met a group of elderly couples on the boat who talked to me about studying abroad from America, living in India, and adjusting in Athens. The interruption from studying was welcome, as they shared their snacks and described how they all used to teach at Universities before, but now are just travelling around all the Aegean Islands, marveling at all they missed out on in life thus far.

Indeed you do have the property I'm look for. I'll take it!

All in all, the trip was a tremendous success, and I have pledged to go back one day, if not very soon. There is something about the Island – the locals who love life and live it to the fullest, the water than beckons you to delve recklessly into its depths, the view that freezes your memory in time, and the warmth with which Santorini fills your heart – definitely not an Island to be taken lightly. Though, it probably doesn’t want to be taken too seriously either. Just when you think there is no more space in your heart to fall in love, that is the perfect time to visit and to fall in love with the Island that is Santorini.