Journey that Mattered in the End

"Two roads diverged in a wood, and I – I took the one less traveled by"

A trip to northern Greece quickly shattered any delusions we were under; just when you think you’ve seen Greece, make the journey up to Thessaloniki and you will instantly swallow your words. It is the second-largest city in Greece, and is the capital of the Central Macedonia region. It also shared equal status with Constantinople as the ‘co-reigning’ city of the Byzantine Empire. It also graciously hosted our short weekend visit and ensured we left with the best impression of it.

After a full day of classes, the overnight train took us to the city by 6.00am on Saturday morning. Too groggy to fully commence our expedition, we sat in the corner of the massive train station by the warm welcoming smells of the bakery and watched commuters journey on. It was a company of three; we planned out the next day and a half full of interesting sights and places to visit.

Figuring out the public transport system takes a little practice. The buses never really leave when they claim to – the whimsical schedule is more of a suggested guideline. Buy a ticket either at a periptero (kiosk) or on board the bus, but absolutely do not forget to validate it in the innocent-looking check-in machine. We settled in for the bus ride to the ancient site of Pella, most famously known as being the seat of King Philip II and his son Alexander III. It was a metropolis with an impressive complex of palaces, a central bustling Agora (meeting place) and luxurious private houses.

We had to request a stop at the site and hopped off the bus into what seemed to be the middle of nowhere. We walked up a road that resembled the quintessential farm with wide open harvested fields, a scattering of barns, and lots of chickens. There were signs that told us we were heading in the right direction, but the signs never corresponded to actual visible points of reference. With our backpacks and humor, we strode on until we abruptly hit a huge statue of Alexander the Great in the center of a large square with a figure of Nike on his palm. This promising landmark showed us the way to the museum of the site. It was also modernized and reconstructed during the Olympic Games, and stands as a testament to ultra-sleek architecture characteristic of government initiatives for the same. With tourist season long gone, everyone stopped to stare as three young foreigners navigated their way around the whole weekend.

All public museums are free to students in Greece (something to miss once we leave) and we happily enjoyed a solid chunk of time all by ourselves in the museums we visited. Known for its exquisite mosaics, Pella survived up until the 1^st century BC when it was probably destroyed by an earthquake. In the museum and at the actual site we saw the original mosaic patterns displayed in the House of Dionysus and the House of the Abduction of Helen. They were all either elaborate geometric designs or scenes with people. They served as enchanting floor decorations in most entrances and entertainment halls of palaces and important buildings.

Alexander the Great, with goddess Nike leading the way

After we gazed our fill and were awkwardly followed closely by the museum guards, we vowed to find the hidden site. The map pointed us one way…it was definitely not the right one. It wasn’t the case that we read it wrongly either: there was only one main road, but it was not on the right side after the first intersection. After forty minutes of walking with blind faith, we approached a dead end. Two more steps towards said dead end and on the left was the site. Laughing mirthlessly, it defiantly dared us to walk through the gates and into the space we desired to explore for quite some time.

The fountains, wells, cisterns, well-paved roads and the dense hydraulic mechanisms all testify to the high standard of living enjoyed by the residents of the settlement. We walked through the heart of the city, the Agora, and came across private houses, large mosaic tiles in various public spaces, both Doric and Ionic columns and evidence of strong fortifications. At the end, we wandered off a beaten path and entered what seemed to be an ongoing excavation of workshops and kilns where pottery and material processing surely took place. There was a huge hole in the middle of a courtyard that ran across another room and ended in a pool structure. The high level of cultural production was confirmed by the object in the museum.

Only after we exhausted every inch of the site did we listen to our grumbling appetites and headed off in search for a hearty meal. The town was almost deserted save for a few locals working outdoors. Unhopefully did we wander, fortunately stumbling upon an adorable taverna with a wooden balcony and colorful décor inside. The waiter was Greek-American and sat with us as he described his life and how he came to be where he is now. The food was impeccable, and far less expensive than we’ve ever encountered. Ravenous, we ate till we could no longer; it took a while. After bidding our goodbyes and walking the lonely road back to the suspicious bus stop, we waited for a while at a souvlaki stand on wheels where the man helped us determine when, where and if the bus would eventually turn up.

Everyone's got mail

In the meantime we wondered ever since we arrived about a sign that read: “multi-chambered tomb”. Intrigued by the lack of further directions, we went in search of it. It ended up being in the backyard of someone’s farm with barbed wire all around because it had closed for the season. The sign depicted colorful chambers within and a staircase led ominously to something we couldn’t see. We stepped back, assessed the situation, looked around, and decided it looked too inviting to pass up. A foot on the lock and over the fence we hopped. Adrenaline racing, it was quickly extinguished when we realized the stairs led to a sturdy door that was looked. Definitely impenetrable. We had our fun, and as we turned around to jump the gate again, we saw it. In apparent slow motion, a truck drove into the area, picking up dust in its wake. Our heart rates flew sky high as we instinctively made it over to the ‘legitimate’ side and waited with bated breaths what this man would have to say to us. He stepped out of the car, looked confused, and then broke out into the broadest grin, chuckling while he said, “It’s okay, you’re not the first and I hope you won’t be the last to try that”. With that, we apologized and learned that only the museum could open the door, and we all-too-hastily rushed to take leave of the site.

With that in mind to keep us alert, we patiently stood at the bus stop and got in it without really glancing back. We switched buses, asked around, and finally made it to the center of the city to our hotel. Inexpensive though it was, the front manager was the chief reason we had such an enjoyable time. He told us all there was to know about getting around the town, what to see, where to eat and what to expect. The rest of the night was spent exploring the streets. As Greece’s college-town, Thessaloniki reminded us that Greece has so much more to offer in terms of entertainment and social atmosphere. We happened to spend the weekend there which coincided with the final day of the International Film Festival and numerous college-sponsored music festivals. Interspersing these events, we also checked out the Roman Forum in the middle of the main park, countless Turkish baths just sitting along the sidewalk, many mosque-turned churches, the Arch of Galerius and the White Tower (which used to be a prison but the last convict was freed after he agreed to whitewash the walls in return).

The Roman Forum, adjacent to the Public Gardens

Dinner was another splendid affair with delicious food and free alcohol and desserts (because “[we] three American girls should have the best time in Greece!”) from a traditional Greek taverna. Greeks are so fond of being outdoors that, even as the temperatures steadily drop, they insist on sitting outdoors at cafés, bars and restaurants. How? By having tall fire heaters strategically located along the streets and plastic shelters to ensnare the warmth so endearingly produced. Full yet again, we meandered with great difficulty back to the hotel and promptly fell asleep.

Waking up at 5.30am is not fun during, ever. Not even when you have to catch a bus, to catch another bus to sit in another bus for over an hour. We made it work though; youth is a marvelous time when your body can be compelled to do ridiculous things despite its rational yet feeble protests. We reached the town of Veria and flagged a taxi to Vergina (since public transport is a trickily operated business on Sundays). Intent on visiting the museum dedicated to the ancient site of Aigai, the ancient capital of the Macedonian Kings, and the cemetery, we were excited to see the tombs of Alexander the Great’s son (Alexander IV) and his father Philip II and the abundance of wealth and gold found.

The museum is one of the most remarkable in all of Greece. Pictures were not allowed inside, but the image of the finds will remain forever imprinted in our memories. An underground building was constructed to protect the royal tombs, maintaining the stable atmospheric conditions for preservation. Also to protect the finds from further pillaging and looting as occurred earlier. From the outside, the museum – built around the tombs looks like (and basically is) an earthen mound. It amazed us with displays of demurely lit gold wreaths, elaborate armor, deadly yet intricately carved weapons and other grave goods that speak volumes about the life and death of those buried there. It also contains a Heroön: a building which was intended for the cult of the dead King and used for ritualistic ceremonies.

All the tombs are accessible to the public and can be explored with abandon. They appear to still be ‘in the ground’ because looking at them requires entering a separate chamber and descending a flight of stairs into the earth and up to the entrance of the tombs. They are in a way resonant with the pyramids in their monumental size and adornment. In the burial chamber were found marble sarcophaguses which further contained The Crown and a gold larnax with the ashes of the deceased royal. As far as museums go, it was beyond incredible and we left astounded by the presentation.

Casually on display, still viciously guarding the tomb it was destined to serve

We left elatedly to return to Thessaloniki. Bus after bus after taxi, we spent the last few hours fruitfully back in the city center. We toured the National Archaeological Museum and the Museum of the Byzantine Empire. It became evident more than ever the emphasis the Greek government places upon education and increasing avenues for intellectual growth. Education is completely funded by them, sites and museums are free for students, accessing amenities in the country is very simple and we are viewed with an aura of innocence, naivety and a yearning for knowledge. Of course we are all those things; it is lovely to be treated with extra regard and attention. Both museums were strikingly extravagant and contained replicas of things we had seen at Pella and Vergina.

It was nearly time to say goodbye once again to a beautiful city. We stopped for a lazy lunch of mouth-watering seafood and free dessert (something we have become too accustomed to) and walked along the seaport as we headed for the train station. There were street performers, children running about the main square with brightly colored and confusingly shaped balloons, young couples stealing an afternoon together and old couples enjoying the fresh air after mass – Thessaloniki could easily compete for the honor and prestige of favorite city in Greece. The train ride home to Athens was an opportunity to catch up on some much needed rest and recuperation. We also sat with three other students from Athens who worked the International Film Festival and invited us to spend time with them once we returned home.

A few masterpieces over here and a few masterpieces over there

Things to do in Greece: Eat fresh and flavorful food – check. Learn enough Modern Greek to interject it into spoken English enough to sound exotic – check. Meet locals who show you how to live life with the utmost zeal – check. Stand and wonder at the natural beauty everywhere – check. See the ancient world through modern eyes – check. Learn enough to last a lifetime – check. Fall more in love with the country with every passing moment – check. Carpe Diem – CHECK.