Worldly Conquests

"The world is a book, and those who do not travel read but only a page"

“When in Rome…”

Oh wait, we were in Rome, that magical city which pretty much dominated the Western World for a significant amount of time. As soon as we hopped off the train and onto the platform we noticed: it was a huge metropolitan train station that looked fancier than most international airports with a mix of high-end boutiques, fast food chains and loud eastern music. Marveling at the grandeur, we followed the instructions from the hostel down Via Marsala and turning at Via Gaetta till we rang up to the hostel. After checking in and being moved to their second location a street over, we were pleasantly surprised that they upgraded us to an apartment suite instead of just one room.

Stunned at how all the accommodation worked out so perfectly throughout the trip, we settled in and soon headed out to explore. It was Thanksgiving Day and a friend’s birthday; a celebration was in order. After stopping by Piazza de Republica and admiring the first glimpse of modern Roman architecture down the ubiquitous Italian high-end shopping street, we headed in search of dinner. A graduate from the University who now works at the Vatican suggested we try the “restaurant in the alley” that night which would steal us away from tourist traps and indulge our palettes with sumptuous local fare. After meandering through the busy streets for over an hour and expertly using the free map we were given, we entered the inconspicuous red-and-white checkered door to a dimly lit room that could comfortably fit no more than ten tables.

There was no menu, simply the house specials, and tons of free bread and red wine. A heaping of gnocchi and many bites of pizza later, we were at the customary post-meal phase so typical of Thanksgiving. We thanked them profusely and left to see what Rome looked like by night and get lost in the cobble-stoned streets and narrow slanting alleys. Unintentionally and miraculously, we ended up in front of Trevi Fountain – its sculpture reflected exaggerated motion and dramatic poses – the largest Baroque fountain in the city. We grabbed a more-than-generous helping of Gelato and with cameras at ready, we turned around and tossed coins into the sea-blue waters over right shoulders. This, according to legend, will ensure we return to Rome one day.

Trevi Fountain - close your eyes and make a wish

Heady with happiness and excited for the morrow, we tucked in for the night. Early the next morning commenced our visit to the Vatican and St. Peter’s Basilica, adding another country that has been visited this trip. The Vatican Museum offers discounted student tickets and a great way to spend about at least three hours. Along with ancient Egyptian artifact sections and Roman sculpture exhibitions, the exquisite yet classic Rafael rooms stood out by a mile (by a kilometer really, since we’re in Europe). The four Stanze di Rafaello form a suit of reception rooms, the public part of the papal apartments. They depicted running themes such as the victory of Christianity over paganism, the heavenly protection granted by Christ to the Church, worldly and spiritual wisdom and harmony, and the lives of Popes Leo III and IV. In the Stanze della Segnatura, the first one to be decorated by him, it focuses on the four great arts: theology, philosophy, jurisprudence and poetry. Each is exemplified in a fresco of its own, but the School of Athens masterpiece takes the crown. It represents the degree of knowledge or truth acquired through reason, namely the esteemed practice of philosophy. It is widely believed that nearly every great Greek philosopher was portrayed in it, but it is not completely certain because Raphael himself never really indicated thus. It was challenging but rewarding to search for Socrates, Aristotle, Alexander the Great, Plato, Euclid, and even Pythagoras (I take back all the negative energy I sent their way during many a dreary math class in school). I could have sworn I saw Leonardo Da Vinci wink back at me.

Of course, the long stroll at the end led to the provocative Sistine Chapel. Although many famous artists contributed to this famous abode of the Pope, Michelangelo’s in particular stand out for a reason. The Last Judgment was as grand as can be imagined – although very embellished and not exactly true to biblical detail, it still boasts of bold colors and emphatic bodily contours. The Creation of Adam – the famous one with God and Adam almost touching at the fingertips – is smaller than expected, but still provokes a powerful emotional response. It is interesting to contemplate his choice of the appearance of God as an elderly and wrinkled white-bearded man while Adam, who is supposed to have been created “in the image and likeness of God”, is depicted in the nude with a powerful physique and a sense of vulnerability as he faces Him.

With that to keep the wheels turning, it was time to visit the actual Basilica. After a security check slightly more invasive than one at an international airport, walking through the majestic columns shields from view the striking St. Peter’s Square with its Tuscan colonnades and giant Egyptian red-granite obelisk. With the elliptical open air papal audience arena behind you, all you can do is nervously walk past the pokerfaced Swiss Guard and into the Cathedral itself. It is no wonder it is the most renowned work of Renaissance architecture. It marks the burial site of Saint Peter, one of the twelve apostles of Christ and the first Bishop of Rome (he was thus the first in the line of papal descent).

Wouldn't ever want to cross him

Past the façade of the square and through the narthex entrance, walking inside the Latin Cross-shaped structure imposes a sense of wonder at the superior granite, marble and stone work. “An ornament of the Earth”, the interior is of vast dimensions and rows after rows of pews allow for the faithful to pray and relish this moment of reverential pilgrimage. The real surprise of the day was yet to come; a real treat and out-of-body experience.

St. Peter’s tomb is a site in the necropolis under the Basilica. It includes several graves and burial sites and also lends its fame to the initial reason for the construction of the Vatican in the first place. During the time of the alleged martyrdom of the Saint, the landscape was that of a hilly terrain with a lone Circus of Nero arena distinguishing the surrounding land. Said to have been crucified upside-down and buried away from prying eyes there, St. Peter remained peacefully so until Constantine I’s reign when it was partially demolished and the first Vatican Church was established. Centuries of history, controversy, mystery and unwavering faith later, the 20^th century saw secret excavations during the World Wars of the site to determine if indeed, evidence held true to legend.

How did we learn all of this? Just our young and attractive British tour guide who guided us through a private tour underneath the Basilica and into the grave-site to – again organized by the student who graduated earlier and who works there.

In the year 1968, on my birthday, the current Pope announced the remains of St. Peter had been uncovered. After disappointing finds in the actual hole where he was rumored to have been placed, an Italian expert arrived on the scene and quickly cleared things up. After examining the archaeological evidence, she stumbled upon symbolic illustrations on the side of an additional ‘graffiti wall’ placed next to the original burial site. With Greek letters and symbols, it was deciphered to read “here lies Peter” (or, “here is buried Peter” which we actually understood with the amount of Greek we have already learned). To stand literally ten feet away from, and actually see, the bone of the body was an incredibly powerful moment. Whether or not the proof was compelling or not, the mere suggestion of it has brought countless to this holy space to admire and pray here. Knowing it was an experience only privileged few receive annually, we took advantage of the moment to observe the magnitude of our situation and promptly bombarded our generous host with a hoard of questions and remarks.

Inside the Imperial Basilica of St. Peter

Leaving St. Peter’s and the Vatican with that piece of precious understanding put many things into perspective. It certainly evoked much thought and consideration regarding the basis for, the controversy surrounding, and the prevalence of the Church and Christianity. Next on the schedule was walking all the way back to the center of the city to meet up for dinner with a group of friends. Along the way were stops at many famous piazzas with elegant carvings and tall arching vaults. The Spanish Steps is a set of…surprise surprise…steps; they connect two piazzas with a Church standing at the very top. Along the way up is the house where English Poet John Keats lived and died in the 19^th century. Most famous for its media appearances in movies and music, the steps glitter with lights, fountains and the smiles of visitors beholding the dazzling sight.

Dinner at a local ristorante and then we met and chatted with some German students staying at our hostel. A few beers later, a very loud football game later, and many weird music videos later, it was time for bed. The next morning was just like all the others: full of sunshine, a wholesome breakfast (of fruit, yogurt, bread and an omelet) and lots of promise. A twenty minute walk later ended us in front of the Coliseum. Considered one of the greatest works of Roman architecture and engineering, it is an elliptical amphitheater. Throughout history it was most famously used for gladiator performances, entertainment, residential dwellings, executions, and even dramas based on classical mythology. In the upper floor of the outer wall of the building is a museum which boasts of hoards of archaeological artifacts from the ancient Roman Empire. The territory spanned across continents, claiming people from all walks of life. The museum very aptly dedicates much information to the memory of the victorious empire. In the Eulogy of Rome (and in the museum itself) is epically stated: “neither the sea, nor vast distances of land could prevent one from being a Roman citizen…all opportunities are open to everyone”. It proudly narrated the means by which Rome ruled – very successfully – most of the “civilized” world.

The 'diploma' certifying when a resident of the Roman Empire became an honored Roman citizen

Walking through the arena and the 50,000 capacity audience stands, the stories take your through an emotional journey of a time of pleasure, excesses and an overall good time. Betting, gambling and lots of drinking used to happen during the sacrifice or game being held. Animals were hauled inside using a complex system of pulleys and levers. Extreme hierarchical differences were reinforced by means of priority and ranked seating. Some shows could have lasted for days, and people had nothing pressing to attend to that would distract from the ensuing source of entertainment.

The stunning views aside, right by the Coliseum is the Ancient Roman Forum, Constantine’s Arch and many old monuments erected, destroyed and reconstructed. The city is a treasure trove of Baroque-style architecture and is full of rich diversity reflected in its design. The Il Vittoriano is a monument built in honor of Victor Emmanuel; he was the first king of a unified Italy. Standing tall amongst much controversy, it is built entirely of blindingly white marble and I somehow managed to pass by it at least twelve times during the course of the day (intentionally, of course). Climbing the side steps to the back of the building (without pausing; much harder than it looks) led to a secret chapel. A secret chapel that turned out to be huge with marble and wood inlaid interior decoration. Competing in size and opulence with even St. Peter’s Basilica, the real surprise was the royal orchestra that happened to be performing at that very moment.

Constantine's Arch

In patriotic memory of Victor Emmanuel

Vibrating through the body and touching the heart, the music was lavish and stately. Feeling slightly out of place, tourists understandably did not stay longer than needed to snap a few pictures and walk out with a definitely bounce in their steps. Onwards and forwards, the Pantheon was offended it hadn’t been visited, and so with the trusty (and already well-worn) map provided by the hostel, we meandered north through more piazzas, shopping districts, as well as a demonstration. It felt like Athens all over again. Literally, as we turned the corner we were stampeded by a mass of young students carrying flags and chanting as they swept us along with them. Managing to extract ourselves and finding the closest shopkeeper, we grilled her at length about what was happening. She said what we’ve all heard before: nobody is happy with the European austerity measures. Even “Italians can demonstrate, like the Greeks” she said. The police were unprepared however, since it is not a common occurrence. They were geared in full preparation and stationed all across the city. With helicopter back-ups that patrolled the skies for the rest of the day, the city was torn between its nature to play host to the visiting world and remain a home for those who live there and who need their opinions to be expressed.

A “temple built for all the gods” soon became a Roman Catholic Church and is now the resting place for a couple of Italian kings who were interred there – the Pantheon is an extremely well-preserved granite colonnaded structure. Its coffered, concrete dome is the largest unreinforced dome in the world, and the building has been in uninterrupted use since the 7^th century. It is open and free to the public, who can walk around and spontaneously join any mass that happens to be taking place if they are lucky enough. Clearly a symbol of national pride, the square around it also plays to the respect and popularity attributed to the Pantheon.

The Pantheon basking in all its glory

Rome wasn’t built in a day, as evidenced by the plethora of things to see and do. A necessary experience is a walk along the Tiber River and a stroll across the ridiculously small “neighborhood” of Isola. The style of buildings doesn’t change dramatically, but it becomes more upscale and residential. Charming Churches with ringing bells and schools letting out for the weekend exposed how the real “Romans” currently live. To stop for a cappuccino, a pastry and a chance to watch the world is a relaxing way to spend an evening by the water. You can climb down the numerous bridges and walk right next to the River if it so strikes your fancy. Of course we did, strolling by the lapping and rushing waters for a while. Then we walked around the two buildings on Isola which is on one of the bridges connecting the two sides of the city. The crème de la crème of society live in this part of town, and it provides a secluded walk through the Autumn-themed streets and the chilly evening wind. The only companions are the smell of something baking, the running footsteps of children in the playground and the distant tinkling of the perfect cup of freshly-brewed coffee.

Evening always comes too quickly. Being winter, the nights come sooner and the darkness hits deceivingly early. A quick freshening up and we were out again to make the most of our last night in Rome. A little research and we committed to the “Graffiti” trattoria; without reservations (honestly, who ever remembers to make one of those?), we cajoled our way into acquiring a table in the best part of the restaurant, and even bargained for free wine and bread. The menu was extensive and offered avant-garde options like wrapped veal, pastas that most probably do not exist outside of Rome, spiced clams, and pineapple infused mushrooms. We ate a lot. And then some more. It was good. Very good.

Brilliant performance by the Royal Orchestra in the hidden Cathedral

It seems almost unnecessary to describe what happened next. The last few hours of the whole trip. It all boiled down to this evening. We saw everything we wanted to see, and far beyond what we hoped to. Ignoring the 6.30am departure time the next morning, we bravely set out on the last and final expedition.

The quest for the best gelaterias in town began quite a while ago – Grave conversations with locals, arguments with other tourists, and meticulous direction-drawing on the map led us to three special locations. The first one was fittingly the oldest one in Rome. It is simple, elegant and hits the spot. With a few classic flavors, this one-of-a-kind homemade ice-cream artist doesn’t even offer cones because they take away from the humble yet effective taste of his cold creations. It also happened to be the cheapest we encountered during the whole week. Next up was a favorite with the tourist crowd because it has over 150 different flavors. Overwhelming to say the least, they understand the tough decision they force upon you and thus allow endless samples. Right when I though no choice could possibly be made, I settled on a triple-chocolate concoction that made my heart very happy indeed.

It was hard to say goodbye to the 147 flavors that I didn’t get to devour, but the final stop compensated spectacularly. Rivaling the first oldest shop as the best gelato in Rome, the only customers in this bakery were locals. We hit the jackpot. Forgoing extravagant blends of tastes, we kept it delicious and classic (and sinful). Mostly because we were full beyond measure, the timeless chocolate-caramel-Irish cream sufficed as we had no regrets (until the next morning) about consuming all of it.

Quintessential image of the city

Yes, gelato was definitely a huge part of this trip, along with other culinary masterpieces we were fortunate enough to taste. Monuments and historical sites enhanced our classroom and textbook education, showing us that seeing truly is believing (and admiring). The people in Italy were so sincere and hospitable, welcoming us with warm smiles (and warm rooms, thankfully) and were always dressed to impress. The travel was hassle-free for the most part, and gave us beautiful glimpses of the dazzling landscapes and different parts of the country. The presents we brought home will always remind us of an unforgettable and perfect time. It was time to return to Athens and (the more comprehensible) Greek, to the routine of classes and assignments, but also to find a renewed appreciation for our new “home” away from home. Only a few more weeks till the adventure comes to an end; it’s now or never.