"A person often meets his destiny on the road he takes to avoid it"
The train pulled into the floating station and we excitedly
trickled out onto the Island of Venice. It looks nothing like how it is
portrayed in the media or popular entertainment – it is infinitely more
charming and pleasing to the eyes. Everything functions via water: taxis,
public transport, ambulances, trade and even the postal service. With a pass
for our entire visit granting us unlimited access to the ferries, we hopped
onto the nearest one on the way to the Island of Lido where our hotel was. Off
the south-west coast from central Venezia,
Lido is 12 km long. In our opinion, it has the best pizza and the best gelato
in all of Venice. After checking in and settling down we were determined to
explore every inch of our ‘home Island’ that night.
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Quintessential view from Rialto Bridge (overlooking where we ate dinner that night) |
It was a fairly local town with hardly any tourists but huge
residential complexes that probably house the rich Italian elites who escape
here in the summer. Mansions rose magnificently around every corner and it was
possibly the only place where we saw any real cars on the road; dozens of
cafés, bars and specialty food stores beckon seductively to the lone passer-by.
We ate dinner at an upscale restaurant that served the best red wine we’ve ever
tasted and claimed to have over two thirds of the tables reserved for loyal
patrons who would show up around 10.00pm.
It had to be done: stratiacella and hazelnut gelato
completed the night. It was fudgy but creamy, sweet but not overpowering, and as
close to perfection as one can hope to realize. We silently devoured each
mouthful and gleefully envisioned nights and nights of endless deliciousness.
What better cultural experience than to watch a movie in a
foreign language? Watching the new 007 James Bond movie in Italian without
subtitles in the cozy theatre behind the crowded gelateria in Lido, Venice. It
goes to show how universal our ability is to pick up on subtleties presented to
all our senses – we were confident we understood more or less the finer points
of the plot and were quickly proven right by the internet. A great start to a
city waiting for us to befriend it; befriend it we did as we rode countless
water boats, walked practically the entire central island, hopped off a boat at
a random island on a whim, visited three different islands in addition to the
main one, and did justice to the familiar souvenirs urging us to take them
home.
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This about sums up Venice: adorable and unbelievably enchanting |
Starting at the very top of the Grand Canal the next day, we
made our way through the busy market streets as well as the simple alleys that
revealed to us people hanging out of their windows conversing with each other,
hanging up their laundry in the middle of the street and cooking
something that smelled inconceivably
mouthwatering. We browsed the famous
Rialto street market, bought Venetian masks, carnival decorations and
out-of-season-strawberries. We were astounded by
Piazza San Marco and the Church of St. Mark, both the principal
public spaces in Venice. We ate lunch with the pigeons by the sea-side (really,
it is the lagoon-side) and walked quite a ways along the coast, stopping at the
Bridge of Sighs, the Navy museum, street shows and the public gardens. It was surreal:
we were in Venice – the city above water, the city of romance, the city of
color, and the city of magnificent architecture. The plethora of Churches and grandiose
buildings glistened powerfully in the early morning dew and mist from the
waters. Words are not enough to do the view justice, but maybe pictures might
help.
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St.Mark's Church in Piazza San Marco |
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Artsy snapshot of the Bridge of Sighs (made of limestone; windows provided convicts of their last view of Venice before their imprisonment) |
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Nonchalance is this Church's middle name. Inside we witnessed a Catholic service (the Nicene Creed) in Italian |
As we tiredly but cheerfully sat down to dinner by the
water, we marveled at the clichéd-ness of the situation. With portions of
dinner outrageously insufficient, we still savored the novelty of eating dinner
by the Grand Canal in Venice. What was savored even more was the dark (and I
mean
almost black) chocolate gelato
with mint chocolate chips that followed. Twice…because once just wasn’t enough
that night. It was a moment of delirious happiness and the night could not have
gotten any better. However, being the semester that it has been thus far, of
course it did. It always gets better: with impressive and unexpected twists of
events, we returned to the hotel to discover that Notre Dame is ranked number
one for college football. Not knowing too much about the sport, it still means
the world to me. While I am having the most spectacular time in Europe, I can
only imagine the blissful delight and exhilaration that is gripping campus. It
will be the best welcome home present. Go Irish!
Halfway done with our time in the city, the next day was
dedicated to the islands of Murano and Burano. And the special island we
spontaneously disembarked onto. After what seemed to be a never-ending ferry
ride to the island, when we finally arrived we were more than satisfied. The
glass-making collection of Venetian Islands boasts of prosperous beginnings and
thriving trade. It consisted of streets and streets of neatly lined and
decadently stocked stores selling original Murano glass. Imagine the wildest
contortion of glass possible, and then add about twenty different colors. Make it
shiny and translucently radiant and you have only come close to beholding an
image close to the actual magical objects of wonder.
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Glass fire in the middle of the paved walkway. Sent chills down the spine |
All but a couple of furnaces were closed that day and we
hesitantly approached the biggest retailer hoping to get a demonstration of
glass-blowing. As we walked around and headed hastily towards the heat and the
light, we were overjoyed to learn that they decided to give us a free
presentation. It was more than we could have hoped for. With front row seats
and interactive moments, we were mesmerized by the speed, accuracy and flair
that go into a work of such perfect art. It ended with the glass-blower presenting
me with a free glass-flower painted a delicate shade of baby pink. Italians
always know how to win hearts everywhere. Ecstatic with our purchases, we left
and headed to the next island.
On the way we took a small detour and landed in Cimiterio, the only cemetery in Venice.
It was a huge island and we walked past the legacies of those lost over the
years. With beautiful graves and burial gifts, they ranged from the early 1800s
to the present. It was established by Napolean, before which people were simply
buried in parish plots across town. With a long philosophical discussion about
life, death and whatever else may or may not exist to keep us company, we paid
our tributes and made our way to Burano. Think Venice and think pastel colored
houses with black wrought-iron balconies. Think bridges over narrow waters, a
peaceful distant melody that harmoniously drives the relaxed way of life, warm
comforts that awaken the palette…it is Burano you’re dreaming of. The most
colorful assortment of vivid buildings side by side is on display, sure to stun
you and never let you put your camera down. Boats and gondolas float enticingly
nearby, innocently watching the world go by. The intricate lace pieces produced
by the island are the icing on top of the cake. It is impossible not to sound
cliché while describing the beauty there is to behold.
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No such thing as a favorite color in Venice |
With the evening getting dark and chilly, we pensively made
our way back to Lido for a quiet dinner by the hotel. It was quiet alright, but
it was also the best pizza in the whole world. Everything about it: the crust
that effortlessly flaked off, the tangy tomato sauce highlighted the flavors of
all the toppings, and each bite was irresistibly devoured. For dessert we
strongly decided against the nutella pizza, but weakly gave in to the gelato
cravings that hit duly as soon as we stepped outside. It was a necessity, and
wasn’t regretted in the slightest. Tucking in to a nostalgic movie was a great
way to end the day and end our visit to the city. We awoke fresh and eager to
continue our journey, gratified by our immensely fruitful stay in Venice.
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Hidden alleyways that only the lucky few stumble upon |
‘Twas the city that promised many things and had tall orders
to live up to; it truly was the city that exceeded by all measures everything
we could ever hope to experience. Before we boarded the train we were
approached by some bold young school-going children who inquisitively
interviewed us about where we are from. It was highly amusing and enlightening
to meet them and their teacher and be a part of their assignment to “see the
world and the people who come to visit the city of Venice”. Talk about perfect
goodbyes. Onwards to the next leg of our shenanigans – Florence: under the
Tuscan Sun shall we forever be.
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"To build a city where it is impossible to build a city is madness in itself, but to build there one of the most elegant and grandest of cities is the madness of genius." |
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