Rediscovering Wonder

"Knowing who you are is the best defense against who they think you are"

Every now and again a modest weekend in Athens is the perfect avenue to engage with the city, eat with the locals, and catch-up with life. Not to mention school is extremely demanding now that the semester is more than halfway through. It is always the little things that make the world go around: a welcoming smile around every corner, a walk to go nowhere in particular, a book that changes your life (at least for the whole day you spend reading it), a chocolate indulgence to perk up a rainy day, and entertaining company to keep you joyful. Add to this potent mix a little spice and flavor – that unique Athenian dimension – and things can get very interesting.

Unlike everyone else in the program, I did not manage to make it up to the Acropolis monument on the very first day of the semester. Nor the next day…nor the next. It eventually did happen; it was time to victoriously explore one of the most symbolic structures recognized the world over. In class it was discussed that the Acropolis essentially is Greece. Turn on the news and representing Greece is either a picture of the prototypical white-washed-with-sea-blue-domed building, a Greek flag, nowadays a can of tear gas or rioters, or the Acropolis. It has withstood the test of time, culture, religion, and politics. From an extravagantly colored pagan shrine to the ancient Hellenic deities, to a Christian church to worship a new and upcoming religion, to a Mosque towering over a powerful Empire, till today – where it is the sacred monument that resonates in the hearts of Greeks everywhere. A symbol of culture, a symbol of history, and a symbol of spirited love.

Interspersed with the hoard of tourists, we climbed up the hill, took photographs, and wandered around the Parthenon and the theatres of Dionysus and Herodes Atticus. It is even more majestic than we ever imagined. The sun glistens off the fluted detail on the pure white marble columns; they radiate ethereal waves of tranquility and wonder. It is a world removed away from the jostling fast-paced life down in the city. Even the way the guards guarded the site was sanctimonious and intimidating. Their respect was evident in their composure, as was the curiosity and excitement of all the people around us. From all over the world, we met Parisians, Spaniards, more Americans, Indians, Australians, Koreans and Chinese visitors. All here to witness the grandeur of the highest structure in Athens, everyone was unified in a community of awe and admiration.

I rather think it speaks for itself, yes?

Like in most places, the delightful features that characterize a place are often taken for granted by its inhabitants – until they leave. It often takes a trip around the world to recognize the splendor of one’s home. Athens is no different: locals are amused to see us get so excited about the competing vendors at the weekly Farmers market, the non-comprehension by waiters at tavernas that sometimes we don’t want wine or bread with our dinner, the strange validation process for tickets while using public transport (that most locals simply choose to ignore), our amazed stares at the impeccable sense of style displayed by everyone, our inability to pass by a single stray animal without fawning over it… and too many other details to count. It is particularly interesting to see the concomitant metropolitan and traditional neighborhood settings that blend seamlessly together with no clear boundaries or limits.

Early every Friday morning in our comfortable neighborhood in Pangrati, hoards of elderly men, upon the insistence from their wives, make their way to the large Farmers market at the end of the street. Alongside stroll many younger adolescents, coaxed by busy parents, to pick up vegetables and fruits for the week. It is a vibrant atmosphere with calls and offers shouted in every direction, free samples of blood-red tomatoes, plump grapes, sharp olives, juicy watermelons, and beckoning smiles with every step. Food is of utmost importance to the Greek way of life – a fact of life ever-present in every situation. What is most amazing is the complete change of pace of the city come nightfall. In Greece, the night cannot even begin to begin until 10.00pm. That is when people contemplate going out for the evening for a drink, dinner and a good time. The street right beyond the Farmers market is a cornucopia of bars, restaurants, and chocolate dessert havens. Almost indistinguishable from the streets of New York or Los Angeles, it is the perfect example of the burgeoning youth culture that is slowly redefining Greek notions of entertainment.

Our stash after a very successful Friday morning at the Farmer's Market

Ancient Greece with its myriad of deities is the image the international domain is most familiar with. Ideals of pantheistic extravagance, passionate interpersonal encounters and strides in knowledge and scholarship abound the world over when the Mediterranean region is referenced. What most people forget is that huge extended families, libations (offerings) of wine and academic symposiums are not all-encompassing with regards to Greek society. This is the Hellenistic portrayal that is externally rendered by Greeks. For the most part however, it is an amalgamation of Byzantine tradition and Ottoman institutions that is internally reflected within circles of Greek locals. Music reminiscent of Eastern mysticism, Rembetika, is adored by all generations, liturgical services are held mostly in mosque-turned-cchurches, and homemade food is relished with its richness and zest. This facet of Greek identity is at the other end of the spectrum is termed as Romiosini.

After Constantine established Byzantium as the new capital of the Roman Empire, Greek culture gradually changed from Hellenic (pagan Greek) to Eastern Roman (Greek Orthodox Christianity). Now, after the integration of certain aspects from the Islamic Ottoman Empire, what remains is a duality of self, exuded by Greeks. On the one hand, they ascribe to European ideals and personify Hellenistic elegance. On the other hand though, they treasure certain means of expressing traditional mystic and Orthodox quotidian life.

Rembetika cafe-bar; a fusion of East and West

Methinks schoolwork is being taken a little too seriously. In other news, with the opportunity to meet Greek students through an event held at our institution, we got to speak to them about life in Athens and growing up Greek. The evening ended with the beginning of a very long night. We took them up on their offer to take us out Greek style, and ended up at the hippest swing club in Athens. A step inside almost cost you a crashing fall to the floor as you maneuver through the twirling and dipping couples. This was a serious performance – no amateurs allowed. Confident that we would embarrass the sophisticated and advanced pairs on the dance floor, we settled to dancing off to the side and spending the whole night on our feet.

Old music favorites blasted through the speakers and polka-dotted classics were a blur everywhere we looked. Greeklish was the language of choice as the crowd was a healthy mix of young American expats and native Greek hipsters. Interspersed with exotic cocktails were very animated conversations (okay, more like interviews) where we questioned the poor Greeks to no end about their thoughts on politics, religion, relationships, music and dance, and food (of course). I got a long lesson in the many different types of string instruments, and was promised a bouzoukia (cross between a guitar and a banjo) of my own to bring home. At the end of the night, there was not a single ounce of doubt: the Greeks definitely know how to do it in style. They carry themselves with pride, work because they like it, party like they never will again, and live because they simply love life.

With the same strand of enthusiasm, it is no wonder The Athens Classic Marathon is a huge hit; eager participants the world over annually flock here to train and run the forty kilometers famed to bring eternal glory and honor. Some students in our group took on the challenge – several of them started training from day one. Dedicated to being dedicated, they never faltered even once and the rest of us could do nothing but wonder at their amazing physical endurance and ability. The shortest time one of them accomplished was exactly four hours…to run twenty-six miles. It is almost unfathomable to reckon with the idea that the winner of the Athens Marathon 2012 finished in just over two hours. That is beyond impressive, and slightly overwhelmingly unnerving. The end point was conveniently located right outside our Academic Center in front of the Kalimarmaro Stadium, thus providing us with the perfect view of the finish line.

Ready, set, go!

As the runners recuperate and still visibly wince down each flight of stairs, life carries on as the weather gets progressively chillier, austerity measures take a toll on the economy and the people, people switch from white to red wine, and school work has our noses to the grind. A pleasant respite was the celebration of Diwali in Athens. The Festival of Lights is most commonly known as the “Indian festival with fireworks and sweet treats”. Spiritually, it is the ‘awareness of the inner light’ and celebrates the victory of positive over negative: the light of the higher self, triumphant over that which masks the true nature of oneself as the unchanging, infinite, immanent and transcendent reality. The surprise came in the unexpected way we ended up experiencing Diwali in Athens. Starting the day with new clothes, class seemed to drag on forever until that evening things started looking up. The Indian-neighbor-and-shopkeeper-who-is-my-best-friend extended an invitation to eat (too many) sweet delights. It was such a thoughtful sentiment, and made even more special by what he gave me next. He claims to “know someone who knows someone” who searched most of the city to buy firecrackers for me to burst. He produced a small package of thoroughly enjoyable sparkling and glittered ones. Oh, and a matchbox with a candle; he thought of everything.

It was a nice touch and reminded me of home: where everything comes to a stop on this day, people are dressed in their finest, and love and laughter abound. This feeling resonated worldwide: on Christmas, Easter, Independence Days, and any festival that brings people together in the solidarity of shared happiness. It sparked the beginning of more adventures: more places to visit, more things to see, more people to meet, and more of life to fall in love with. The journey continues, and is all set to get even more wonderful.